This is particularly difficult when using third party shells. The trickiest part of the process is routing all the wires properly and making sure that the shell closes properly.
I always put it on where I soldered the LED light and speakers and on the contacts points on the actual speakers. Use kapton tape to cover all contact points that may possible short. You will have to widen the hole of the right hinge post for the acrylic rod to fit. Step 6 – Add the light tubeĪdd a 6mm (.24 inches) acrylic rod to the section between the hinge posts of the bottom half of the DS Lite. I put one by the stylus slot hole and one inside the DS game slot. Position the speakers on the motherboard. I solder them to the contact by the headphone jack shown in picture. Solder the black wires of the speakers to a ground point on the motherboard.
Once again, a spudge is very helpful for this. Remove the touch screen small ribbon connector by easily pulling it from the motherboard. Remove the top screen ribbon connector by popping up the black bracket that secures it and pulling it away from the connector. The white cable should immediately be isolated from motherboard upon disconnecting it. Route the black cable underneath the DS slot and isolate it from the motherboard. All you need is slight upward pressure and they should easily snap off. Step 3 – Isolate the motherboardįind the black cable on the WiFi module and the white cable next to it on the motherboard and use a spudge or something similar to remove them. Once the shell removed the back of DS Lite motherboard will be completely accessible. Don’t forget the single screw at the edge of the DS slot. Remove the two rubber covers on the top to get to the two screws there. Begin with the battery cover, remove the battery and remove the screws under the battery.
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Use a tri wing screw driver and a small phillips screw driver to remove the back of the bottom part of the DS Lite. These are often sold for parts and are the perfect candidates for a macro.
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Nintendo DS Lites are notorious for broken hinges, cracked screens, and damaged shells. I was recently approached by Hand Held Legend to put together a brief, basic guide on how I build these and I gladly accepted. Not satisfied with this, I started making two speaker versions of my macros and this has become one of the most appreciated features of my builds. The other interesting I realized is that macros mostly had one speaker and the use of headphones was encouraged. When I started building these macros and posting the pictures, I realized how much people liked to personalize their handhelds, so I began creating many distinct color combinations and utilizing many different acrylic rods (the light tubes) to produce a stunning final result. The distinct feature of the “Neon Advance” is the light tube that adorns it between the hinge posts.Ī few months later, inspired by Joe Bleep’s masterpiece and motivated by YouTube channels like “ This Does Not Compute” and “ The Retro Future”, I began my modding journey and eventually got the confidence to build my first Game Boy Macro. In 2018 Joe Bleeps created the “Neon Advance” and I immediately fell in love with it! The “Neon Advance” is basically a Game Boy Macro – a modified Nintendo DS Lite that is meant to play Game Boy Advance Games.
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